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Fuses for cars and motorsport.

Automotive & motorsport fuses | The complete guide!

Why do you need fuses in your car?

Working with vehicle electrics can feel intimidating, so our goal with this guide is to keep you informed and confident regarding perhaps the most vital part of any automotive electrical system: the fuses. It might not be the most exciting part of the build, but they protect both your wallet and your car. Correct selection and understanding can prevent everything from simple component failure to a full scale wire fire that risks the entire vehicle. 

So what is the point of fuses? At a basic level, it is about introducing a weak link in the chain where you can guarantee that is the point of failure if something goes wrong. Without a fuse to blow and break the circuit, you risk damaging the component or the wiring instead, which can have catastrophic consequences. There is a vast range of different fuse types suited to many different applications. 

Different types of fuses

Blade fuses

The most common fuse in automotive and motorsport applications, which most people will recognise. They are simply pressed into the fuse box and replaced with a new one if they blow. Some fuse boxes even have dedicated slots for spare fuses, allowing for a quick replacement of a blown blade fuse. 

They come in three main sizes: Mini, Standard (often called ATC/ATO), and Maxi. If you are unsure which size your car uses, you can compare with the images or measure the width of the fuse. Note that there are also bolt-down fuses called MIDI, but these are completely different; read more about them below. 

Mini is 10.5mm wide, and we stock them from 7.5A to 30A. 

Standard (Midi) is 14.5mm wide, and we stock them from 7.5A to 30A. 

Maxi is 28mm wide, and we stock them in 50A and 60A.

Shop blade fuses here!

Blade fuses are the most common type of fuse for cars.
Blade fuses are the most common type of fuse for cars.

Circuit breakers

A specialist type of fuse that can be reset with a simple press of a button. These are classified as thermal or slow blow, as they trip when the internal mechanism heats up and expands, allowing them to be reset once they have cooled down. 

We offer them in many different ratings, from 30A up to a massive 300A. The range of applications is broad, from cars, trucks and buses to motorhomes, caravans, winches, tractors and ATVs, as well as marine applications thanks to their waterproof construction. All models we stock are secured using an M6 bolt. 

Shop circuit breakers here!

Circuit breakers can be reset when they trip.
Circuit breakers can be reset when they trip.

Bolt-down fuses

Used for high-current applications, such as main power feeds. Like blade fuses, these blow when they trip and must be replaced with a new one. However, they are bolted into place for a more secure connection and usually require a spanner for installation. 

BF in the designation stands for "Bolt-on Fuse". BF1 refers to the smaller MIDI size of approximately 30mm, and BF2 refers to the slightly larger MEGA size of approximately 50mm. 

They are available in three versions: ANL, MIDI/BF1, and MEGA/BF2. All models we offer are secured with an M6 bolt. Note that a bolt-down fuse called "MIDI" is not the same as the "Midi" (Standard) blade fuse mentioned above. 

Shop bolt-down fuses here!

Bolt-down fuses are used in racing and motorsport where vibration resistance is essential.
Bolt-down fuses are used in racing and motorsport where vibration resistance is essential.

Glass fuses

A simpler type of fuse that is easy to inspect and replace. Often used in audio systems and other applications with lower current demands. These fuses are "fast acting", meaning they blow immediately when the threshold is exceeded to protect components and wiring. The main advantages of glass fuses are that they are easy to install, quick to check, and both inexpensive and compact.

However, they are sensitive to vibrations, so they should be avoided in professional racing environments. In those cases, a bolt-down fuse or similar option with better vibration resistance is a better choice. 

Shop a complete glass fuse assortment box here!

Glass fuses are easy to replace and simple to inspect, but do not withstand vibrations well over time.
Glass fuses are easy to replace and simple to inspect, but do not withstand vibrations well over time.

J-Case

A patented type of fuse classified as "slow blow" or time-delay. It is designed to handle short current peaks higher than its rating, ensuring it doesn't trip when a consumer exceeds the limit for just a few milliseconds. It often replaces older Maxi fuses and features a female terminal design that causes less wear on the contact surfaces within the fuse box compared to traditional male terminals. 

These are primarily used in modern vehicles. 

Shop J-Case fuses here!

J-Case is a patented fuse commonly used in modern vehicles.
J-Case is a patented fuse commonly used in modern vehicles. 

FAQ - Common questions about automotive and motorsport fuses

 

What is a fuse and why is it needed?

A fuse acts as a controlled weak link in your electrical chain. It is designed to blow and break the circuit if the current gets too high, protecting your wiring from melting and preventing the car from catching fire.

 

What is the difference between a fuse and a split charge relay?

A fuse is a guard that protects against short circuits by melting. A split charge relay works more like a doorman that connects or separates two batteries (e.g., one for starting and one for auxiliary use) so they don't drain each other.

 

How do I know which amp rating to use?

The fuse should be chosen to handle slightly more than your component's maximum draw, but it must blow before the cable is damaged. If your fan draws 18A, a 20-25A fuse is ideal to provide a margin without risking a wire fire. 

 

What different types of fuses are there and what are they used for?

Here are the most common models found in the paddock:

  • Mini and Standard (Blade): The most common small fuses for modern automotive electrics, covering the 2A-40A range.
  • Maxi: Larger fuses for heavy consumers like cooling fans (20A-100A).
  • MIDI and MEGA: Heavy duty bolt-down fuses for main battery feeds and motorsport builds (30A-500A).
  • ANL: Large fuses capable of handling extremely high currents, common in car audio and custom builds (35A-750A).
  • Glass Fuses: Older technology that doesn't handle vibration well, mostly used in measuring instruments today.
Where should the fuse be located?

Always as close to the battery as possible, ideally within 20–30 cm. If you have a long unprotected cable, a short circuit against the chassis can turn the entire wire into a glowing heating element before the fuse even notices. The stretch between the battery and the first fuse is the only part of the system without protection, so it is vital to minimise risk and keep the distance as short as possible. 

 

Can I install a larger fuse if it blows frequently?

No, that is like ignoring a warning light. If the fuse blows, it is due to excessive load or an electrical fault – if you fit a larger one, you risk the cable burning up instead.

 

What is the difference between a fast acting and a slow blow fuse?

A fast acting fuse fails immediately during an overcurrent. A slow blow (time-delay) fuse can handle short current spikes, such as when a large fuel pump primes and needs an extra kick right at the start. It provides a small extra safety margin.

 

How does cable length affect fuse selection?

The longer the cable, the more voltage drop and heat is generated. For long runs, you need to increase the wire gauge to reduce resistance, and you then match the fuse to the new, heavier cable.

 

Does every consumer/component need its own fuse?

Yes, in a professional build, everything should be fused individually. If you have multiple items on a single fuse, the fuse must be so strong that it no longer protects individual small components if one of them fails. Furthermore, if two consumers hit their peak draw simultaneously, they could trip the fuse even if neither individual component is actually pulling too much current. 

 

What is a main fuse?

This is your car's primary life insurance. It sits between the battery and the distribution board (PDU/Fuse box) and protects the entire system (often 100A-300A) in case the main feed is damaged.

 

Can I use standard household fuses (AC) in a car (DC)?

No. Direct current (DC) is harder to interrupt because it doesn't have a zero-crossing like alternating current (AC). Always use fuses rated for DC.

 

What is the difference between a standard fuse and a circuit breaker?

A standard fuse is a single-use item that is destroyed when it protects you. A circuit breaker simply "trips" and can be easily reset with a button once you have fixed the fault.

 

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